Reviving Print Culture, One Book at a Time: Exploring the Enduring Allure of Jimbocho, the City of Books

Today, Ohya Shobo is in the hands of its fourth-generation owner, Koketsu Kuri.

A true Jimbocho native, Koketsu grew up immersed in the world of antiquarian books. As a child, she often accompanied her father, Kimio—the third-generation owner—to ukiyo-e exhibitions, gradually falling under the spell of Japan's rich literary and artistic heritage. From an early age, she had a feeling she would one day take over the family business. However, when she began managing the shop in her late twenties, reality proved more complicated than expected.

During Japan's economic bubble era, demand for traditional Japanese books surged, and business boomed. Simply opening the shop each day was enough to keep things running. Nevertheless, things began to shift as the economy slowed down, and the COVID-19 pandemic brought further challenges. Customers dwindled, and the shop's aging building became an ongoing concern.

Even with these challenges, Koketsu was determined to keep the legacy alive.

"We have to get younger people interested," she says. To reach new audiences, she created a full-color, 111-page catalog focused on yokai—supernatural creatures familiar to fans of manga and anime. The catalog was also sold online and became an unexpected hit. The experience reaffirmed her belief that embracing innovative ideas is key. "We can't just rely on tradition. We have to keep evolving."

As pandemic restrictions eased, the shop began welcoming a new kind of customer—young tourists from overseas, drawn in by the uniqueness of ukiyo-e and ancient maps. Among them was Vsevolod Babichuk, the Russian traveler who marveled at a red-tinged Mount Fuji print. Koketsu now faced a new challenge: how to turn that sense of wonder into real-world sales.

Her father, Kimio, who had always been her guide, passed away in mid-February 2025 at the age of 85. While she can no longer seek his advice, his values continue to serve as her compass. "When I first took over, nearby bookstore owners often encouraged me," she says. "My father believed in the power of human connection—and that's what makes Jimbocho so special. I want to carry on that spirit and help this neighborhood thrive."

Beyond Books: Jimbocho's Charm Lies in More Than Just Its Shelves

Jimbocho is famous both in Japan and abroad as Tokyo's beloved "Book Town."

The neighborhood's roots go back to 1689 when samurai Jimbo Nagaharu was granted land in the area—giving the district its name. According to literary critic Nogami Akira, the area began to evolve into a center of learning in the late Edo period, when the shogunate established institutions for Western studies in this region. With the advent of the Meiji era, the area witnessed the establishment of numerous educational institutions, some of which later evolved into major national and private universities. As students and educators filled the streets, bookstores followed, gradually forming the vibrant literary district that exists today.

At the heart of the neighborhood is Jimbocho Crossing, where three subway lines (the Toei Mita Line, Toei Shinjuku Line, and Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line) converge. While the area around Jimbocho Station forms the core, the broader Jimbocho district also includes neighboring areas such as Ogawamachi to the east and Ochanomizu to the north.

Lined with retro architecture—including copper-sheet facade signs—the streets of Jimbocho are home to around 130 antiquarian bookstores. It is also a hub for new publications, with prominent shops like SANSEIDO (currently under reconstruction) and Shosen Grande—alongside major publishing houses such as Shueisha Inc., and SHOGAKUKAN Inc., as well as numerous printing and bookbinding companies, making it one of the most concentrated publishing districts in the world. Beyond the world of books, the area is also renowned for its vibrant food culture—especially curry and ramen—as well as its classic cafés with a nostalgic Showa-era (1926-1989) ambiance, sporting goods shops, and music stores. It is a place where people come not only to buy books but to take a walk and soak in Tokyo's layered, eclectic culture.

A Cultural Treasure at Risk: Calls to Preserve Jimbocho's Living Legacy

For all its history and charm, Jimbocho is now facing a crossroads.

Many local businesses are struggling to survive. Their owners are aging, and it is becoming harder to pass shops down to the new generation. Buildings are deteriorating, but few have the funds to rebuild. Then came the COVID-19 pandemic, which emptied the streets and accelerated the decline.

Recognizing the urgent need for action, Kamikawa Yoko—Member of the House of Representatives and the president of the Diet members' caucus for print culture—stepped up.

At the July 2023 Print Culture Forum (hosted by Bunkatsushin Ltd.), Kamikawa introduced her "Planetariums of Knowledge" concept. She described Jimbocho as a one-of-a-kind neighborhood, where every part of the publishing world—from antiquarian and new bookstores to printers, publishers, and distributors—coexists in one place. "The entire district is a living 'planetarium of knowledge' that Japan can proudly share with the world," she said, calling for stronger government and local government support to preserve its intangible cultural assets.

Her vision sparked momentum. "Let's make Jimbocho a global center for print and literary culture," she urged.

That call to action led to the creation of the Jimbocho Cultural Promotion Council.

In June 2024, six organizations came together to launch the Jimbocho Cultural Promotion Council. These included the Association for Revitalizing Jimbocho, the Town of Books—a group made up of bookstore and antiquarian bookstore owners, publishers, and others involved in the local community—as well as the Tokyo Cultural Heritage Alliance, composed of university professors and academic experts. Other founding members included the Japan Publishing Industry Foundation for Culture (JPIC) and the Characters Culture Promotion Organization. Together, they pledged to support the revitalization and long-term growth of Jimbocho through a wide range of collaborative efforts.

The Council's first major event was a public symposium to discuss the district's most pressing issues. Held in June 2024, the event drew notable guests, including novelist Asada Jiro and Hirono Shinichi, president of Shueisha Inc. Asada, who spent his childhood in Kanda and still visits Jimbocho on a weekly basis, spoke passionately to attendees. "Japan is a country that developed not through resources but through the written word. And Jimbocho, with its concentration of antiquarian bookstores, represents Japan's proud tradition of literary culture," he said.

The second symposium, held in January 2025, featured more voices of support—including Kamikawa, president of the Diet members' caucus for print culture, writer and Nihon University chairperson Hayashi Mariko, and French literature scholar Kashima Shigeru. Hayashi emphasized the importance of bookstores to a city's character, saying, "A bookstore gives a neighborhood dignity. Jimbocho has a richness that only books can create." Kashima added that bookstores today can only survive as either massive all-in-one shops or ultra-specialized niche stores—and that Jimbocho has long embodied both. Former Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry, and Member of the House of Representatives, Saito Ken also joined the event, declaring, "Revitalizing Jimbocho means revitalizing bookstores across the country. I'll be working alongside you to make it happen," drawing applause from an audience of nearly 280. 

Dining Takes the Lead: Jimbocho Sees More Young and International Visitors

In 2024, a new survey shed light on who is visiting Jimbocho—and what is drawing them in.

Although locals have long claimed that more young people and international tourists are arriving, the data now supports this assertion. Mobile phone location tracking revealed that visitors in their 40s still make up the largest group, but the number of people in their 20s has grown noticeably. The survey also found that more women are visiting Jimbocho compared to 2018.

A separate questionnaire revealed that the most common reason people come to Jimbocho is for food and drink, underscoring the neighborhood's appeal beyond just books. Jimbocho is evolving into a destination with a broad mix of attractions.

Antiquarian bookstores also took part in the survey. Many noted a decline in foot traffic since the pandemic, but an increase in international customers. Still, some expressed concern. "We're seeing more young people around," one bookseller said. "But they're not really buying books. If this continues, Jimbocho could end up like a free museum—beautiful, but not sustainable." 

Night Walks and Literary Legends: Events Bring New Energy to Jimbocho

Events across Jimbocho are helping breathe fresh life into the neighborhood.

One standout effort came from the Tokyo Cultural Heritage Alliance, which turned its attention to the quieter side of the district: nighttime. With most bookstores and lunch-focused cafés closing by early evening, the alliance saw an opportunity to reimagine Jimbocho after dark.

Their "Night Walk in Jimbocho" series took place three times between November and December 2024, inviting participants to rediscover the area in a new light. The walk held on November 16 led guests through historic and beloved spots, including the Isseido Booksellers—a rare bookstore operating for over 100 years—Shosen Grande, known for its niche selection of books on trains, pro wrestling, and subcultures, and the iconic retro café Sabor. Feedback was overwhelmingly positive. "It wasn't just about the bookstores," one participant said. "The entire neighborhood—its vintage cafés, hidden restaurants, and unique atmosphere—came together in a way that felt magical."

On November 4, 2024, the Association for Revitalizing Jimbocho, the Town of Books, hosted a significant event: a symposium titled "Mori Ogai, Natsume Soseki, and Higuchi Ichiyo's Jimbocho," spotlighting the ties between Japan's literary greats and the district. Held in central Tokyo, the gathering drew an impressive crowd of 1,350 attendees.

As Japan faces a steady decline in print readership and bookstores, Jimbocho's creative, community-driven revival may offer a way forward. For many involved, hope is rising that the world's largest booktown still has new chapters to write.