This audio is generated by AI, so pronunciation and expressions may not be fully accurate. The narration is only in English.
It might be assumed that capital cities—or at least the largest cities—should naturally dominate in national domestic football leagues. A quick glance around the footballing world, however, shows that this is not always the case. In England, the northern teams of Liverpool, Manchester United, and Manchester City have collectively claimed more than twice as many league titles as all London teams combined. Italy's top honor has been won 36 times by Juventus of Turin, but on just 3 occasions by AS Roma. No team from Berlin has scaled the heights of German football since 1931.
The story has been much the same in Japan. The J.League, established in 1993 as the nation's first fully professional football league, is structured into three divisions: J1, J2, and J3. Since its founding, teams from Yokohama, Hiroshima, Nagoya, Saitama, Kashima, Kashiwa, Kawasaki, Osaka, Iwata, and Kobe have all enjoyed the sweet taste of victory. As of yet, no team from Tokyo has.
Quite incredibly, Tokyo did not even get its first J.League franchise until 1999, when the former amateur team Tokyo Gas Football Club was rebranded as FC Tokyo. Led by the great Brazilian striker Amaral—who scored 165 goals in 292 games for FC Tokyo at both amateur and professional levels—the team finished second in the J2 League in their debut season, winning promotion to the J1 League. In the years since, FC Tokyo has played in this top tier of Japanese football in 25 out of 26 seasons.
Every football club wants its supporters to feel pride in their team's history and achievements. A direct train from Shinjuku Station brings fans straight to Tobitakyu Station, where massive FC Tokyo displays showcase striking photographs of club legends such as Amaral and Diego Oliveira alongside current stars like Nagatomo Yuto and Tawaratsumida Kota.
Ahead, blue-and-red FC Tokyo banners line the roads, fluttering in the breeze as thousands of loyal fans make their way towards Ajinomoto Stadium. Team logos emblazon the stairs leading up from street level to the stadium's entrance. The words "You'll Never Walk Alone" are the title of the famous supporters' song shared by FC Tokyo, Liverpool, Celtic, and Borussia Dortmund.
On the field, the team has started to repay the faith of its fans in recent seasons. Along with three J.League Cups, FC Tokyo won the Emperor's Cup in 2011, bringing the city of Tokyo its first-ever pieces of football silverware. The team has participated in the AFC Champions League Elite on three occasions and came agonizingly close to a first J1 League title in 2019.
At every FC Tokyo game, the air crackles with the tension of possibility. The capital's first J. League title is surely just a matter of time.
With international residents now making up 5% of its population and unprecedented numbers of inbound tourists flocking to the city from overseas, Tokyo continues to become more diverse by the day. Well aware of the rising profile of Japanese football worldwide, FC Tokyo is keen to become a club that welcomes fans from around the world.
"We are doing everything we can to make FC Tokyo more accessible to international tourists and international residents," explained Kurabayashi Yuya, public relations and promotion department manager, at the team's home match against Cerezo Osaka on June 14. "Our website now has extensive information in English, including a system for purchasing tickets as well as player profiles and match reports. We also have staff members on-site at the merchandise shop and elsewhere who can assist fans in English and other languages."
FC Tokyo supporters sing "You'll Never Walk Alone," one of the world's most iconic football songs.
The city of Chofu, home to Ajinomoto Stadium, rallies its full support behind FC Tokyo.
Ajinomoto Stadium attracts a diverse crowd, with the June 14 match marking the highest number of international fans yet.
The main information desk offers assistance in English.
Just outside the stadium, the official shop sells uniforms, towel scarves, and other merchandise.
FC Tokyo's roster includes several former Japan national team players, including Nagatomo Yuto and Morishige Masato.
Fans can try limited-edition original beer, available exclusively at Aoaka Park outside Ajinomoto Stadium.
Delicious and refreshing—and served in an FC Tokyo Beer cup.
Matchdays offer a wide variety of food and drinks for fans to enjoy.
From gourmet eats to live pre-match events, the J.League keeps fans fed and entertained—all in a safe and welcoming environment.
"Mitaka Day" festivities featuring stalls selling fresh vegetables grown in Mitaka.
A hands-on booth lets visitors try boccia, a Para sport growing in popularity in Mitaka City.
A Brazilian samba troupe from Asakusa fires up the pre-match atmosphere with a lively performance.
Tokyo Dorompa, one of the J.League's most popular mascots, tries out a few samba moves of his own.
FC Tokyo goes to great lengths to celebrate cultural diversity. Outside Ajinomoto Stadium in the build-up to the match against Cerezo, the club hosted a Brazil Festa event featuring capoeira demonstrations, gourmet Brazilian food, and a spectacular Carnival-style parade with a samba band and dancers in elaborate feathered costumes.
Brazilian players have long played a key role in the club—both among its current lineup and past legends. With Brazilians also making up a significant part of Japan's foreign-born community, the event highlighted the strong connection between the two nations.
Inside the stadium, fans lined up to buy drinks and snacks and soak up the matchday atmosphere, including some from as far away as France, Spain, Argentina, and South Africa.
Amanda Clark and David Probert from Adelaide, Australia, explained that this was far from their first match in Japan and that they have long been fans of the J.League. "For Australia, Japan is obviously our biggest rival in Asia, and produces so many fantastic players," explained Probert. "And we've had many Australian players in the J.League too, and Australian managers like Ange Postecoglou, who led the Yokohama F. Marinos to the J.League title in 2019. I watch heaps of J.League games on television in Australia, but there's nothing like attending one live in Japan."
"The games here are really entertaining—on and off the field," Clark added. "It's fascinating to watch the same sport played in another place with their own unique soccer culture. This is actually our first FC Tokyo match, so we're very excited to see them take on [Cerezo] Osaka."
For local fan Sagoi Haru, who has been supporting FC Tokyo his whole life, the game against Cerezo was a chance to introduce two of his university friends—Alexander Winther from Sweden and Brody Retzlaff from the United States—to the sport in Japan. "I'm a loyal supporter," he laughs. "I've been through all the ups and downs. So, I wanted to bring these guys along to show them something important to me—and to make sure they don't become fans of other teams!"
Winther was fascinated by the differences in matchday security between Japan and Europe. "In Sweden, like many countries, fans of different teams cannot walk to the stadium together, or there could be trouble. But today I noticed many people on the train and in the street wearing pink Osaka shirts, and there was no problem at all."
Retzlaff, who grew up on American football, was impressed by the stadium and atmosphere. "I think it's great. You've got older people, younger people, lots of families with little kids. It's a relaxing environment where you can have a few beers, but there's also a real passion for the team and the sport."
Just as Tokyo's international community continues to grow, many Japanese residents have also come from other parts of the country. Rallying fans around a single sports team is difficult in any big city. In a place as sprawling and varied as Tokyo, it's especially challenging.
By choosing the name FC Tokyo, the club set itself the ambitious goal to become the main football team of the capital. At the same time, there is an understanding that Tokyo is made up of smaller, local communities that deserve recognition and direct engagement. On March 27, 2023, FC Tokyo became the first sports team to sign a Wide Collaboration Agreement with the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Governor of Tokyo Koike Yuriko praised the football club's particular commitment to improving the lives of children, the elderly, and disabled citizens in Tokyo.
"At FC Tokyo, we believe that we can contribute significantly to the social needs of local communities," explained Tanaka Shoichiro, manager of the club's community affairs department. "Part of this involves us reaching out, with soccer schools for youngsters, exercise classes for elderly people, promoting healthy eating and active lifestyles. On the other hand, we also hold events at Ajinomoto Stadium before matches where each local community can showcase its own unique identity."
Prior to the match against Cerezo Osaka, FC Tokyo hosted Mitaka Day to honor the nearby community of Mitaka City. The festivities included locally-produced vegetables for sale, an entertaining Mitaka-themed quiz game, and a stunning Awa Odori dance with performers in traditional Japanese clothing—a preview of the 58th Mitaka Awa Odori Festival taking place in August.
An on-site food bank tent staffed by local volunteers was overflowing with donations, including emergency rations to aid in disaster preparedness.
FC Tokyo also has one eye fixed firmly on the future. The club's soccer schools and youth academy employ experienced licensed coaches who focus on skill development, teamwork, and a love of the game. Many FC Tokyo players have emerged from this system, such as midfielder Tawaratsumida Kota, who recently made his debut with the Japanese national team, and defender Doi Kanta, son of the legendary FC Tokyo former goalkeeper Doi Yoichi.
The team also knows where its future fans will come from. "Like many J.League teams, we offer substantial discounts on season tickets and single-match tickets for younger fans," Kurabayashi explained. "Childhood memories are very important, especially when it comes to sports. If you become an FC Tokyo fan as a child, you will probably be a fan for life."
The match itself that day was a thrilling affair, finishing 2-2 after a spirited comeback by FC Tokyo capped off by a fantastic equalizer from striker Marcelo Ryan in the 81st minute. Fans left the stadium entertained, proud of their team and their city, but inevitably always wanting more.
Movie: Tokyo Metropolitan Government
