Chef's Thoughts on Tokyo:
A Taste of Ethiopia in Tokyo: Spices, Fermentation, and Rich Culture

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Tokyo's first Ethiopian restaurant, Queen Sheba, is an experience that transports you to Africa with its music and aromatic spices. Its owner, Solomon (Ethiopian naming convention does not include family names), has been running the restaurant for over 30 years. We spoke with him about his desire to spread Ethiopian culture through cuisine, the evolving charm of Tokyo, and the city's growing diversity.
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Solomon, owner of Queen Sheba in Nakameguro, Tokyo.

This audio is generated by AI, so pronunciation and expressions may not be fully accurate. The narration is only in English.

Creating a Space for Ethiopian Cuisine

Solomon first came to Japan as an international student because he "wanted to go to the country farthest from Ethiopia," he says. While living in Tokyo, he felt he had no place to enjoy food from his own culture, which inspired him to open an Ethiopian restaurant.

"When I came to Japan in the 1980s, there were no Ethiopian restaurants, and barely anyone knew about African cuisine itself," he says. "That's why I decided to open a restaurant in Tokyo, the city I became familiar with."

He had no prior experience as a chef or business owner. He learned how to cook from expats at the Ethiopian embassy in Tokyo and worked hard to replicate the flavors of his home. In 1990, he opened Queen Sheba, named after the Queen of Sheba, a figure of legend in the founding story of the Ethiopian Empire.

"The Queen of Sheba is a symbol of our national pride and tradition, and it's a name that evokes a sense of history," he says. "I didn't choose it myself, but now I really like it."

Spreading Out from the International Community

When the restaurant first opened, most customers were international. Many came looking for Ethiopian cuisine which is relatively well known in the West. In contrast, few Japanese customers visited, often put off by the aroma of the spices and fermented foods before even trying a bite.

However, word of mouth spread through the international community, and the number of Japanese customers slowly grew. The rise of social media has also led to more people discovering foreign cultures and foods on their own, according to Solomon.

"TV used to be the only source of information, but now you can look up anything you like. Young people, in particular, have a wider perspective, and many of them come here to enjoy Ethiopian food and culture. Today, 70% of our customers are Japanese."

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"The way of thinking about foreign food and culture has changed in recent years," says Solomon.

Staying True to Flavor Despite Local Palates

Queen Sheba's food is truly authentic; the spice and aroma are not altered for Japanese palates. Solomon is committed to preserving the taste of his home country for a specific reason.

"If you adapt the flavor to the Japanese palate just because they don't know what the authentic flavor is, it becomes its own thing," he explains. "I want people to experience the real taste so they can learn about the appeal and culture of Ethiopia."

For example, injera, Ethiopia's traditional crepe-like bread made from fermented teff (a crop grass), has a distinctively sour taste that is often unfamiliar and surprising to Japanese people. However, this healthy food is rich in iron and calcium. By offering these authentic flavors, Solomon is sharing the rich depth of Ethiopian food culture.

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Queen Sheba serves food on top of injera in the traditional Ethiopian style. Photo: courtesy of Queen Sheba

According to Solomon, the dishes served with injera are mostly stewed, and the key to the flavor lies in the spices.

"Ethiopian spices have a rich flavor, similar to Japanese miso," he says. "Each blend is a mix of many different spices made over an extended period, so they cannot be easily changed to cater to Japanese palates."

Solomon returns to Ethiopia every year to visit the local spice artisans. Instead of simply buying pre-made blends, he has them crafted to match the specific taste of his restaurant.

"You can't replicate our taste with store-bought spices," he explains. "The process takes place in Ethiopia: roasting the spices, turning them into powder, and then letting them rest for a deep aroma. It takes time and effort, just like Japanese miso or soy sauce. You won't get the true Ethiopian taste without it."

The parts of Ethiopian culture Solomon wants to share in Tokyo is not limited to cuisine. Music and the arts are also an important part of the experience.

"Dance and music are excellent examples of culture transcending language barriers and are an even better opportunity to get to know Africa than food," he says. "Before the COVID-19 pandemic, we used to hold traditional African music performances and events every week. They have been temporarily suspended, and we now play African music and live videos on a monitor instead. We hope to resume live performances and events one day."

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The Charm of Tokyo's Diversity

Solomon has lived in Japan for around 40 years and has witnessed a dramatic change in Tokyo's landscape.

"In the 1980s, Tokyo was full of life," he recalls. "Shinjuku and Shibuya, in particular, had many jazz cafes and live music venues, playing music from various countries. As redevelopment progressed, the city seemed to become more homogeneous, but I think that's part of the fun of Tokyo, where new things are born."

Despite these changes, he says Tokyo's food culture has grown richer.

"When I first came to Japan, there wasn't much foreign cuisine available other than Chinese and Italian," he says. "But now you can eat food from any country. I think this diversity is a unique charm of a big city where different cultures can mingle."

A Space to Share Culture

For Solomon, Queen Sheba is more than a restaurant; it is a place to introduce the culture of his birthplace to Tokyo.

"I want people to enjoy music and conversation through Ethiopian cuisine," he says. "In Ethiopia and other African countries, people often make friends with the person sitting next to them. I want people here to experience and enjoy that kind of culture."

Even in a city where people can experience food from all over the world, Queen Sheba stands out as a place to experience cultural diversity. Solomon with his unwavering dedication is a great contribution to Tokyo's multicultural landscape.

Solomon

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Born in Ethiopia, Solomon came to Japan in the 1980s and opened Tokyo's first Ethiopian restaurant, Queen Sheba, in Nakameguro in 1990. As the owner, he continues to spread Ethiopian culture through music, art, and food.
Interview and writing by Funabashi Maki
Photos by Fujishima Ryo
Translation by Endo Toshio