Correspondents' Eye on Tokyo:
Tokyo's Sumo Culture Makes a Big Impact
An Experience Worth Waiting for
Cena arrived in Japan as a language school student in 2012, having studied and worked in journalism in Paris for eight years prior. "For the first nine months, I was going to Japanese language school whilst trying to do some freelancing work. I eventually went on to become a freelance journalist," Cena tells us as we sip coffee at the unique Cafe Norakuro in Sumida City, whose walls are adorned with sumo memorabilia. It was during his time as a student that he was first introduced to Japan's national sport, sumo wrestling.
"Roughly six months after I arrived in Japan a friend told me that you could get cheap tournament tickets if you lined up at six in the morning. In fact, I think he might have gotten there the night before and slept there!" he laughs, noting that lining up in the early hours to purchase tickets is no longer possible, since the pandemic. Upon being invited, Cena decided to give it a shot, "I wanted to see what it was like. I didn't know anything about sumo so I just went there to try it." What surprised him was just how accessible sumo is, even for first-timers.
"The world surrounding sumo wrestling is very complicated. All the rules, rituals—hundreds of wrestlers—dozens of people all moving around, but one thing that's very simple is that the first time you watch a fight you immediately understand that the first one who steps out of the ring loses." Along with being easy to understand, he was also immensely entertained, "In some cases bouts only last a few seconds, so you never get bored even if you don't understand all the rules." It was not just watching the bouts themselves that fascinated Cena, "There's always something to watch due to the decorum. It's not just the action on the dohyo (the circle in which the bouts take place) but everything around it; even the way people are dressed."
Sumo is Interwoven in the Fabric of the City
Sumo wrestling has a long history in Japan, spanning back hundreds of years. Early depictions of the sport show what is believed to be an agricultural dance performed to usher in a good harvest. The first mention of sumo was from a manuscript dating back to 712, which tells of how the Japanese islands were fought over by two gods. Despite dips in popularity throughout the centuries, and even bans of public sumo performances due to fears of disturbing public morals in the mid-17th century, sumo has endured.
"Beyond its history and religious aspects, sumo has always been a spectacle, a show, an exhibition, something that is not just for the gods, but for people to watch and enjoy. I guess that's still very present," Cena says on the sport's abiding charm. Throughout Tokyo, you can find evidence of sumo culture, with Cena informing us, "It's sprinkled throughout the city. There are sumo stables in different neighborhoods, as well as school sumo clubs, so sometimes you can walk around and see sumo wrestlers' mawashi belts hanging out to dry in the sun."
From Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine in Koto City, which is considered the birthplace of current professional sumo, to the thriving district of Ryogoku, which houses many sumo stables and is home to the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo arena, Tokyo is the sport's home. Now interested international visitors are heading to these areas to catch a glimpse of this fascinating part of Japanese culture, and the world of sumo is adapting to accommodate them. One such location is Arashio-beya, a stable found in Nihonbashi, just west of Shinjuku. "We did a feature on the touristic appeal of sumo last year, with some reporting in Arashio-beya," Cena says, "The whole wall has been turned into a window so people can watch the training from the street."
French Connection
Like Arashio-beya, the world of sumo is adapting to match international interest, which has only grown over the last decade as Japan has become one of the most popular vacation destinations in the world. However, prior to this, sumo already had an international reputation. Cena recalls his own awareness of the sport before ever landing in Japan, "I knew of the sport because our former President, Jacques Chirac, was a huge fan. In fact, I was told that when he was President, one of the tasks of the French Embassy was to inform him of the results of the tournaments every day. Everyone in France knew about his fascination with the sport."
So strong was Chirac's love of the sport that he organized overseas sumo exhibition tournaments in Paris, bringing wrestlers over to France for the first time in 1986, and then again in 1995. In 2005, after visiting a sumo tournament in Osaka, the crowd gave him a standing ovation as he left, repeatedly chanting "Chirac! Chirac!". As a sumo super-fan, his passing in 2019 even made front page headlines in many of Japan's newspapers, as the sumo world mourned. Beyond France, international visitors from all over the world are keen to experience a historical Japanese discipline officially known as Japan's national sport.
The Changing Times
Sumo has constantly had to adapt to keep up with new media forms. Cena explains that "in the past century, when they started radio broadcasts, they had to adapt the whole show so it ended at a fixed time. When TV broadcasts started, there was a roof over the dohyo that was supported by four pillars which they cut because they were in the way of the cameras." In some ways, sumo has adapted faster than more modern sports, with Cena adding, "They have had video referees for a long time, even before football."
The most recent move forward has been outreach. Arashio-beya, for example, has an English-language website with dates and times posted for people who wish to watch training sessions. The website for buying tournament tickets is also available in English. "The Japan Sumo Association even has a YouTube channel in English," Cena adds, "They know about the international interest, and they are trying to find ways to embrace it." Outside of the main spectacle, there are more ways sumo is trying to capitalize on international interest. You can find sumo stables open to international tourists, grab a bowl of chanko nabe (the famous stew wrestlers eat every day) in Ryogoku, or even have lunch while being entertained by former sumo wrestlers! For international residents who are big fans, like Cena, you can always become a member of a fan club, which makes it easier to go watch them train. "A few years ago I became a member of the Isegahama stable supporters club" he tells us.
For Cena, he is happy to see the world become more interested in sumo, "it is a great way for the international community and Japanese community to come together. When you meet Japanese sumo fans it's very easy to strike up a conversation. It's a good icebreaker." Love and interest in the sport override cultural differences, allowing people to come together to enjoy this ancient tradition.
Outside of the sport, Cena has called Tokyo his home for the last 12 years and has no plans to leave anytime soon, "It's a great place to live," he tells us citing convenience and opportunities as one of the main things he loves about the city. He currently resides in Shinjuku, "There are a lot of sides to Shinjuku, busy areas and quiet areas. It's so easy to get around, I can just cycle to the office," he says, "I also love just walking around and taking photos and enjoying live music such as concerts, festivals, and jazz clubs." Like many other international residents, Cena has made Tokyo his home and shares the city's culture through his deep passion and respect for a sport steeped in the country's history and traditions.
Mathias Cena
