Geisha and Ryotei: The Appeal of Japan's Traditional Culture

Asakusa Is an Open Kagai

Kagai—districts where geisha entertain people—have a long history. They are said to have originated in the 16th century when seven ochaya (tea houses with geisha) were officially given permission to operate around the east gate of the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto. The area was named, and is still called, Kamishichiken (Seven Upper Houses) because of this.

Later, kagai also became popular in Edo (now known as Tokyo), and the tradition continues today in Asakusa, Shinbashi, Akasaka, Kagurazaka, Mukojima, and Yoshicho (Nihonbashi Ningyocho), collectively known as Tokyo's Six Kagai.

Kawamura explains that the difference between Kyoto and Edo's kagai comes from historically different cultures and clientele. "Kyoto was the city of the nobility, so traditionally, its ryotei and geisha are sophisticated and refined. Edo, on the other hand, was a samurai society. I feel that the ideology of Zen Buddhism is strong here, and that a tastefully simplified, chic culture is more valued."

He says that each of Tokyo's current Six Kagai also historically has its own unique style. "Shinbashi and Akasaka have been patronized by politicians and business leaders because they are close to the government offices. In contrast, Asakusa is Tokyo's most tourist-oriented area with the city's oldest temple, Senso-ji, at its center, and the kagai and karyukai (the world of geisha) have been preserved and nurtured by the whole town and loved by people of various ages, occupations, and positions. This kind of open atmosphere is the charm of Asakusa."

As one of the four remaining ryotei in Asakusa, Miyakodori has been operating since 1948. Ryotei restaurants with a focus on geisha entertainment are called machiai-jaya (meeting tea houses). Miyakodori is the only machiai-jaya in Asakusa today.

Kawamura's mother, who was a geisha herself, became Miyakodori's second proprietress. Kawamura is the master of the bar inside the ryotei and also manages the restaurant alongside her.

Are Geisha Really Inaccessible?

People assume that being entertained by geisha is expensive and requires a referral for first timers by existing customers like many geisha establishments. When asked about this, Kawamura explained:

"It is true that people tend to think that geisha entertainment is too high-class for them. If you want to enjoy the art of geisha dancing and singing with the shamisen and other instruments, you need to hire three geisha. The fee for geisha and cost of food, room, etc. would be around 100,000 yen. Of course, the per-person cost can be lower if, for example, the number of guests is increased, the number of geisha is reduced, and the menu is changed. The reverse is also true."

In addition to enjoying the geisha's performances, guests can also enjoy a variety of games and have so much fun that they forget about the time.

Foreign Visitors Can Join the Fun

After the pandemic, many places are bustling with people again, and Asakusa in particular has seen an increase in foreign tourists. "Taito City (where Asakusa is located) is training tour guides for foreign visitors, and they often bring tourists to us. Foreigners experience the beautiful dances and games and react with genuine enjoyment on their faces and in their cheers, which makes the geisha even more engaged. Even if they do not understand the language, they learn how to play the games through body language and gestures. It is best when people experience it for themselves."

Geisha entertain guests with games that they play with sensu (folding fans) and gestures. The appeal of geisha entertainment is that guests not only see traditional performing art up close, but also participate in it.

Promoting Asakusa and Geisha Culture

Kawamura has a strong aspiration to pass Asakusa's traditional culture on to the next generation.

"Tokyo is a city of strong cultural contrasts, and that is its charm. Areas with skyscrapers co-exist near places like Asakusa where you can experience and enjoy the history and culture just by standing in the street, and the karyukai is also present. Although cultural facilities tend to attract attention, Asakusa's main appeal is its people. Not only the people who were born and raised here, but also everybody who loves Asakusa is working together to promote it and its culture. I think this atmosphere is what makes Asakusa so appealing."

That is why Kawamura wants people not only in Japan but also abroad to get to know Asakusa and learn more about the world of geisha.

The geisha also actively participate in events outside the ryotei to showcase the skills they have honed over the years. Many of those events are open to first timers, including the Asakusa Odori, the largest event of the Tokyo Asakusa Geisha Union, not to mention seasonal events such as cherry blossom viewing parties in spring.

"Most of all, I would like to increase the number of geisha in Asakusa. At its height around 1920, there were more than 1,000, but now there are around 20 only. We need to provide opportunities to make it more appealing for young women to become geisha."

It turns out that ryotei and geisha are not as inaccessible as you think. Once you experience them, you may discover an entirely new world.

Kawamura Eiro

Born in Asakusa in 1978. His grandfather was a stage actor and his grandmother was a geisha. His mother became the proprietress of the ryotei Miyakodori after working for 27 years as a geisha. Kawamura was born and raised in this environment and joined the business in 2013 to develop and revitalize the geisha world. He currently runs the family business while also serving as the vice president of Tokyo Asakusa Geisha Union.