A Voyage of Discovery through Tokyo's Waterways
Cruising into Curiosity
The waterbuses on the Tokyo Mizube Cruising Line connect a number of popular waterfront tourist spots in Tokyo, such as Odaiba Seaside Park, Asakusa, and Waters Takeshiba, a multipurpose entertainment complex. This time, the course was a special two-hour cruise from Ryogoku to Kasai Rinkai Park, passing a number of iconic symbols of Tokyo on the trip along the Sumida River and then out into Tokyo Bay.
In the Ryogoku River Center waiting room, anticipation filled the air as everyone gathered for their cruise on the Cosmos. Many of the passengers were families with children, and they gravitated to the window seats once boarding commenced.
Passengers were treated to superb views of watercraft of all shapes and sizes, as well as planes coming into land at nearby Tokyo International Airport (Haneda). Two young brothers were glued to the windows, avidly snapping photos on phones borrowed from adult family members. "I like the planes and the boats. I think I got some good shots," declared the older boy, an elementary school third grader. "Look, a flying fish!" his first-grade brother chimed in excitedly, while their grandmother added that she was surprised at how many birds they could see.
As it turned out, birds and fish weren't the only "creatures" on this tour.
A Hub of Activity at the Port of Tokyo
On the approach to the Oi Container Terminal, the navigator talked about the important role these facilities play for not only Tokyo, but for Japan as a whole, handling vast amounts of goods swiftly and effectively on a daily basis. With a total length of 2,354 meters and seven continuous deep-water berths, Oi Container Terminal is the largest of the container terminals at the Port of Tokyo. In turn, the port handles the most foreign trade containers in Japan, with ships arriving from all over the globe. The container terminal facilities include a number of earthquake-resistant berths, ensuring that essential goods could still make it into the country in the wake of a disaster.
Among the most visually striking aspects are the rows of red and white gantry cranes for cargo handling. To avoid interfering with air traffic from Haneda Airport, the cranes at Oi Container Terminal have a mechanism that allows the upper part to fold down when not in use. The cranes' resemblance to long-necked four-footed animals earned them the nickname of kirin or "giraffes."
Braving the midday heat, a fifth-grader and his mother stood on the top deck of the Cosmos to take in the view. They had joined the trip looking for inspiration for the son's summer holiday homework project, whereby students research and write about a topic of their choice.
"I knew a little bit about shipping containers and cranes, but this is the first time I've seen them up close. It's cool that the ships come here from lots of other countries," the boy remarked. "I actually work nearby, but I never realized how much goes on at the port. We're seeing a new side of Tokyo today," said his mother.
A Giant Among Bridges
The Cosmos passed directly underneath the famous Rainbow Bridge, before approaching another graceful span—the Tokyo Gate Bridge, which marks the entry to Tokyo Bay. Completed in 2012, the bridge is 2,618 meters long and features a dynamic triangular truss design. This shape is very stable, allowing the bridge to support great loads. The Tokyo Gate Bridge is also affectionately known as "Dinosaur Bridge," since the truss sections resemble two giant creatures facing each other. The Cosmos turned around at the bridge and headed towards Kasai Rinkai Park.
"I took the waterbus several years ago when my children were younger, so there was a bit of nostalgia riding it again. But I don't remember passing under the Tokyo Gate Bridge, which was quite impressive," said a long-term international resident of Tokyo who joined the cruise. "We also had a lovely view of Tokyo Skytree in the distance and the planes landing at Haneda Airport, passing low on the other side," she added.
As the Tokyo Gate Bridge is not part of the Tokyo Mizube Cruising Line's regular route, passengers on this special summer holiday cruise had a rare opportunity to see the bridge at close quarters.
Tokyo experienced a surge in urban development leading up to the Tokyo 1964 Olympic Games with the rapid expansion of expressways and public transport systems, including the shinkansen (bullet train). Conversely, the city's rivers fell victim to pollution and neglect. Fortunately, however, a renewed appreciation for their importance in recent decades has led to positive changes. Improvements to household sewage treatment and factory wastewater control have cleaned up the Sumida River, for example. Riverside walkways, parks and waterfront dining terraces have helped to reacquaint Tokyo residents with the charms of their waterways.
One of the cruise passengers, a retiree who has lived all her life in Tokyo, remarked on this transformation. "When I was younger, nobody wanted to come out to the river. It's remarkable how clean everything is now, and to see how the river can be both a place for industry and for tourism," she said.
The cruise terminated at Kasai Rinkai Park, where most of the passengers headed off to enjoy family-friendly attractions such as an aquarium and a large Ferris wheel. This educational journey is just one example of how Tokyo's waterways are becoming a focal point for learning and leisure, and an integral part of the cityscape.