Tokyo Fashion Showing the Way
From California to Tokyo
An Argentine-American, Godoy was raised in Los Angeles, California, where she developed a keen interest in fashion through the mediums of movies and magazines. Her interests took her to Paris, where she studied the visual arts for a year, before returning to the United States. It was upon her return that Godoy ran into a group of Japanese students at a club in San Francisco who were studying at the Academy of Art University.
"I was very interested in the way they dressed. It was very, very different," Godoy recalls. From their use of layering to mixing of patterns, even the way they held themselves, Godoy had not seen anything quite like it. "I did not really know anything about Japanese culture, so it was kind of a revelation around style and self-expression." Through her new-found friends, she was not only introduced to the Tokyo trends of the time, but also the music and thriving Shibuya scene of the late 90s.
With this influence and Godoy's desire to continue her visual education, she set off for Tokyo the summer she graduated. Upon arriving, she discovered a city world's apart from anywhere she had been before, "I think the first time you come to Japan after being in Europe or the U.S. it is just a visual overload. A kind of beautiful chaos."
Thriving in Tokyo's Beautiful Chaos
With the connections she made back in San Francisco, Godoy was able to quickly enter Tokyo's vibrant fashion and culture scene, sharing her work at a gallery in the Komaba district near Shibuya. She invited editors from Japan's fashion magazines, including legendary editor in chief and author Sugatsuke Masanobu. Looking to expand overseas, he offered her the position of fashion editor at Composite, a one-of-a-kind avantgarde fashion magazine and a boutique publishing house. "I was there for about three years at a really key moment, the dawn of the internet, so I established connections quickly and I was also creating all the international content, organizing shoots, and coming up with concepts for the magazine."
Her role at Composite, followed by a stint as fashion editor at legendary magazine Studio Voice, allowed Godoy to dive straight into Tokyo's exciting and dynamic fashion culture, providing the perfect springboard for her career. Since then, she had a stint in Paris where she created content for Chanel and Cartier among others, and her work has been featured in acclaimed publications such as CNN, Highsnobiety, and, of course, Vogue.
In 2022, Godoy became the head of editorial content at Vogue Japan overseeing all of the brands platforms.
Having spent over two decades immersing herself in Tokyo's fashion scene, no one can argue Godoy's expertise. She has even authored her own books, Style Deficit Disorder: Harajuku Street Fashion - Tokyo and Japanese Goth which investigate and discuss Tokyo's famed street style subcultures and their influence on international fashion.
Building an International Community of Artists
Throughout her time in Japan, Godoy has witnessed the evolution of Tokyo and its fashion industry, especially in relation to internationalization. "Japan is much more connected to Asia now, which is exciting. For example one of China's most talented photographers, Nick Yang, came and shot this for us," she says, holding Vogue Japan's 25th Anniversary cover. "I feel Japan has become this crossroads between East and West."
Being a part of this expansion of Asian talent into the international market has been a huge driving force for Godoy, "There is a whole new school coming from Asia that are part of the entertainment ecosystem with a different set of references, and work ethic. It is very exciting for me to be at Vogue Japan now, to be able to work with these people and highlight them. It is something that maybe wouldn't make sense for another Vogue territory to do, so I feel very lucky." She adds that "Japanese culture continues to be a source of inspiration to the world, from pop culture on Netflix to crafts. Continuing to champion and support these figures on Vogue Japan's platform or share with our sister platforms in other territories is our mission."
She has seen this internationalization reflected in Japan's street style trends, especially when it comes to vintage fashion, a genre that Tokyo is renowned for. "People come to Tokyo to buy vintage," Godoy states, highlighting the prevalence of high-end vintage shops in locations such as Shimokitazawa and Shibuya. One reason she gives behind this vintage boom is that "young people who are passionate about fashion, a lot of them can easily start their own vintage shops. There is definitely a strong point of view in their selection as well. It is not random. Whether Y2K or Showa or a specific brand, they have such a strong narrative and there is a real razor-sharp focus when buying."
Young fashionistas are also finding support from Tokyo Metropolitan Government initiatives such as fashion design competitions, like Next Fashion Designer of Tokyo and the Sustainable Fashion Design Awards. "Any support is positive," Godoy says, "as long as there is a follow through. I think that is the most important thing. Fashion is really about the community that you form, which allows you entrance into new worlds." For Godoy, her role at Vogue also allows her to help create those communities. "If there is someone I really believe in, such as a photographer, stylist, actor, or a designer, I can reach out to anyone in the Vogue community and say, 'this person is worth looking at. This person is worth supporting.'" Godoy can thus take Japanese and Asian talent and help provide them with a global platform.
"Somewhere You can Really be Free"
It is not just talented people, but worthwhile destinations and venues that Godoy will share with the fashion community. However, there are some personal favorites she likes to keep close to her chest. "I kind of gatekeep," she jokes, "but that's because there are so many people coming to town, I want to make sure I can book a table at my favorite restaurant." That being said, Godoy still wants to share the best spots with those who come to visit, "I really love the old nostalgic shitamachi neighborhoods because of their architecture, places like Jimbocho, for books and galleries, and Shimokitazawa."
Looking to the future of the city, Godoy is excited by the rise of boutiques. "I am interested in concept shops focused around crafts. Small boutique brands that really focus on quality and sell items made in Japan that you cannot find elsewhere." She is also happy to see select stores thriving thanks to online marketplaces but believes that visiting physically allows you to meet the "cast of characters" that make the business so engaging. "You will find the most inspiration in terms of street style when you go into boutiques."
After so many years, Tokyo is truly Godoy's home. "I love Tokyo so much, I have lived here longer than any other city. It is somewhere where you can really be free. You can live in Tokyo at any price point and the quality is just so very high, which is amazing. You can experience fantastic food, beautiful art and architecture, travel is fairly inexpensive, and on the fringes, there's natural beauty as well. Here you kind of have it all."
Tiffany Godoy
Photos by Akiyoshi Yoko