The Future of Tokyo's Fashion Scene, as Seen by Young Designers

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The Next Fashion Designer of Tokyo (NFDT) and the Sustainable Fashion Design Award (SFDA) are fashion competitions hosted by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. The final judging for the second installment of both competitions was held in March 2024, and led to the discovery of new talent—Tachizawa Takuto, winner of the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix for the NFDT, and Namiki Rikiya, winner of the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix for the SFDA. We asked them, while they were still students at Bunka Fashion College, about their feelings and post-graduation activities, as well as their thoughts and future vision for Tokyo as it aims to become a fashion hub.
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Tachizawa's "Fraying," which won the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix at the Next Fashion Designer of Tokyo 2024. Photo: courtesy of the Bureau of Industrial and Labor Affairs, Tokyo Metropolitan Government

Feelings Toward Their Final Fashion Competitions as Students

The Next Fashion Designer of Tokyo (NFDT) and the Sustainable Fashion Design Award (SFDA) are fashion competitions established by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government in 2022. The aim of both competitions is to discover and train young designers who can go on to become world-class designers, with the ultimate goal of making Tokyo a fashion hub on par with Paris, Milan, New York, and London.

The defining feature of the NFDT is that applicants must be students living or studying in Tokyo. For the SFDA, it is the evaluation standard, which assesses whether designers have been able to express a new kind of worldview or aesthetic, while making use of uniquely Japanese cultural elements such as kimonos. The NFDT and SFDA are divided into a total of four categories. For the NFDT, the categories are the Free Category, in which designers choose their own themes, and the Inclusive Design Category, in which clothing designs are based on the needs of people with impairments, while combining functionality and fashion. For the SFDA, these are the Wear Category, for clothing made with kimono fabrics, and the Fashion Item Category, for bags and other items made likewise with kimono fabrics.

The winners, out of the over 2,300 works submitted, were Tachizawa, who won the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix in the Free Category for the NFDT, and Namiki, who won the same award in the Wear Category for the SFDA. The two say they decided to apply to the competition after encouragement from their teachers at school and those in the fashion industry. However, given that this would be both of their final competitions as students, they were eager to make their mark. Tachizawa in particular says he found himself very enthusiastic, what with it being his second time taking on the competition.

"I'd done various competitions in the past, but I'd never won a grand prize. But I knew this would be my final competition as a student, and I really wanted to come out on top. I put my heart and soul into each and every one of my works and ended up submitting over 50 works—pretty much ready to give up on a career in fashion if I didn't get the recognition I wanted."

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Tachizawa discussing his feelings from when he participated in the NFDT.

Tachizawa got through the preliminary judging, participated in the production workshop, and produced works according to his design drawings, before ultimately winning the Grand Prix. Tachizawa reflects on how he felt when he won the award.

"It was the first time I'd won a major award, and I was honestly just elated. My family and friends had supported me this whole time, so I thought this was a way I could repay them, if even a little."

Namiki too says he felt emotions he had never felt before in his life.

"It was a mixture of emotions, including relief, astonishment, joy, and nervousness, and my mind went absolutely blank. All the tension that I had held in my body up until that point dissipated, and all my emotions just poured out into me."

Being Inspired and Influenced by Globally-Recognized Designers

One of the defining features of the workshops and judging for the NFDT and SFDA is that applicants are able to receive feedback, including comments and advice, from judges who are world-renowned in the fashion industry. Tachizawa says that the feedback he got from the judges had a major impact on his own way of thinking.

"They asked me not only about the design and business side of my works, but also my thoughts on sustainability, and the meaning behind the works I would be showing in this competition. My theme was 'Fraying.' The judges gave me detailed advice on how to embody the imperfect, how to 'break down' beauty, while thinking about and expressing my own individuality."

Another appeal of both competitions is the substantial support they offer to winners, with the winning works exhibited at commercial facilities, and support provided for participation in exhibitions in Paris. Namiki says that this kind of support system can motivate young designers to aim for the world stage.

"We've actually had several workshops for the winners, with lectures by globally-recognized designers. We've also been given opportunities to participate in exhibitions, as well as practical support for launching our own brands. It really made me feel they were putting effort into supporting young designers, which was inspiring for me personally."

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Namiki's "Flow," which won the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix at the Sustainable Fashion Design Award 2024. Photo: courtesy of the Bureau of Industrial and Labor Affairs, Tokyo Metropolitan Government

Namiki goes on to say that participating in the SFDA was a good opportunity to get thinking about sustainable fashion.

"For this competition, I emphasized the recycling of materials. But in participating in the competition, I was reminded that sustainable fashion is not just about materials, but also about working conditions, such as the ensuring of fair wages and work hours, and a safe work environment."

Tokyo as a Fashion Hub

The aim of both competitions is to turn Tokyo into a fashion hub. "You know, a lot of people actually come to Japan for its fashion," says Namiki. Tachizawa too is hopeful that Tokyo can become this hub: "Tokyo has the potential for it."

"Living in Tokyo, you realize how freely everyone is going about enjoying fashion. I think this is because there is an element of tolerance in Tokyo as a city, a spirit of recognizing diversity and individuality. I think that's why Tokyo has the potential to become a fashion hub on par with other major cities around the world."

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Tachizawa designed "Tokyo Patchwork" as his graduation project, based on his idea of Tokyo.

So says Tachizawa, who is currently studying under the Sho_Konishi_Design_Lab, a fashion education system run by world-renowned designer Konishi Sho, whom he met as an instructor while a student at Bunka Fashion College.

"When I was a student, Mr. Konishi showed me through his own actions how various paths will open up for you if you have the ability to take action, and that changed the way I approached the creation process. It's through this connection that I'm currently learning under Mr. Konishi, about how to handle individuality in design, as well as how to develop a portfolio and design concepts that will appeal to the rest of the world, with the goal of ultimately working for an overseas fashion house."

Namiki too is engaged in a wide range of activities toward his own dream.

"I chose to go freelance because I'm interested in various forms of expression, not limited to fashion. I want to explore various possibilities while also moving toward the launch of my own brand."

Tachizawa Takuto

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Born in Saitama Prefecture. Graduated with a Creative Design Advanced Diploma from Bunka Fashion College in 2024. Received the "Honors Award" given to the school's most outstanding student. Currently studying under the Sho_Konishi_Design_Lab. Won the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix at the Next Fashion Designer of Tokyo while still a student. His graduation project, "Tokyo Patchwork," was introduced on international platforms such as Service95 and NOT JUST A LABEL.

Namiki Rikiya

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Began studying at Bunka Fashion College in 2021. Engaged in various creative activities outside of the school while still a student, receiving awards and being selected in numerous competitions. Participated in Shibuya Fashion Week's "THE INCUBATION" for three consecutive seasons starting in 2022. In 2023, he was selected as a finalist for the Soen Award, the most prestigious fashion competition in Japan. The following year, he won the Governor of Tokyo Award/Grand Prix in the Wear Category for Sustainable Fashion Design Award 2024. Graduated from the Creative Apparel Design program at Bunka Fashion College the same year, and currently preparing to take on the next chapter of his endeavors.

Interview and writing by Funabashi Maki
Photos by Fujishima Ryo
Translation by Tanaka Seira