Overnight Stay on Mt. Mitake Refreshes Both Body and Mind
The Shrine in the Sky
Musashi Mitake Shrine, also known as "the shrine in the sky," sits roughly 900 meters above sea level. Although the main worship hall previously faced south, shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered it rebuilt facing east toward his new capital of Edo (now Tokyo) in 1606, around the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1868). Points of interest include a recurring wolf motif and a Treasure Hall filled with samurai swords and armor.
Mt. Mitake is accessible to visitors from central Tokyo by train, bus, and—to ascend the steep slopes—cable car. Residents and lifeline services can also reach the summit via a narrow, winding road.
Given the shrine's remote location, pilgrims traditionally stayed overnight at nearby shukubo lodgings. HIGASHIBABA, run by the Baba family for over 400 years, is particularly distinctive. Completed in 1866, the current building retains its characteristic late-Edo period architecture, including traditional Japanese-style rooms, an impressive thatch roof, and a beautiful antique toilet (not in use). HIGASHIBABA is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.
Said to be descended from an important vassal of the ruler of Kai Province (now Yamanashi Prefecture) during Japan's Warring States period(15th century to early 17th century), males of the Baba family have served as oshi shrine priests for generations. Currently, HIGASHIBABA is run by 14th-generation oshi Katsumi and his wife Sachiyo, with strong support from their son Koichi and his wife Kayoko. Koichi and Kayoko's three young sons are "candidates" for future oshi, although Kayoko says the choice will be their own to make when they are older.
Finding "Just Right" at HIGASHIBABA
Recently, the Baba family put their heads together to re-envision the experience HIGASHIBABA offers guests. The result of their three years of preparation is an experiential accommodation plan called "totonoinototo," which draws on each family member's expertise and combines traditional Shinto activities with spa-like relaxation and homey yet refined meals.
The plan begins when guests arrive after lunch. Following a family introduction, Sachiyo and Kayoko prepare medicinal tea made from flowers and herbs; each guest can choose a blend based on what condition they want to address, such as relaxation or boosting immunity.
Next, guests head into HIGASHIBABA's back garden, which abuts the mountain forest. There they can alternate at their own pace between a toasty sauna, a cool water bath, and forest "bathing" while ensconced in a deck chair and fluffy blankets. Katsumi may come out for a chat about life on the mountain or a serenade on his shinobue flute.
After guests bathe—indoors this time—they change into traditional Japanese loungewear. Katsumi reappears in Shinto priest garb to perform a ritual at the family's in-house shrine. As guests will participate in Musashi Mitake Shrine's morning ceremony the next day, he teaches them the correct way to give an offering. Shinto ceremonies often involve ritual food offerings, and Katsumi explains that the dishes are usually eaten later by shrine priests.
In this case, HIGASHIBABA's guests get to enjoy the bounty offered at the household shrine before dinner. The delicious food, prepared by Sachiyo and Kayoko, is served in three-tiered boxes, which symbolize stacking up happiness. Although tradition forbids offering flesh from four-legged animals at the shrine, Sachiyo adds a meat dish to the boxes later, at the table.
Finally, as guests begin feeling completely satisfied and relaxed, a hand soak with more medicinal herbs caps off the day, before they snuggle into HIGASHIBABA's plush mattresses and futons.
A Peaceful Morning on the Mountain
Although Mt. Mitake receives many visitors, especially when fall colors paint the mountain red and gold, waking with the sun at the shukubo allows guests to experience a peaceful quiet and soft light that day trippers rarely get to enjoy.
Setting out from HIGASHIBABA at 6:30 a.m., with a picnic breakfast in hand, guests climb 300 steps to Musashi Mitake Shrine at the mountain's peak. Neighborhood cats may make themselves companions on the road for a while, before slipping away into alleys and woods. Far below, the sea of gentle pink clouds enveloping Tokyo slowly melts away into a glorious, clear morning.
Arriving at the summit, guests walk under the watchful gaze of the shrine's guardian wolf statues and enter the main hall for the morning ceremony. Staying at a shukubo and purifying oneself before visiting a shrine is an ancient and formal way of worshiping, according to the Baba family.
Following the short ceremony, guests enjoy their picnic breakfast of vegetables, fish, and hearty miso soup prepared by Sachiyo, HIGASHIBABA's totonoshi. In fact, totonoshi is a title Kayoko created in collaboration with her in-laws; she wanted it to highlight the role of the oshi's wife in helping guests reset and feel comfortable during their stay.
Upon returning to HIGASHIBABA, Katsumi writes a calligraphy talisman for each guest with brush and ink. Words have the power to manifest into reality, he explains. Then, under sparks struck by flint and steel, the guests depart.
HIGASHIBABA's "totonoinototo" experience is neither formal nor overly religious. Alongside the stunning mountain views, delicious food, and rich cultural experiences, one of the stay's greatest pleasures is getting to know the—in their own words, "eccentric, unique, and jolly"—Baba family themselves. Blending traditions passed down over hundreds of years with the creative ideas of new generations, the Baba family makes a pilgrimage to Tokyo's spiritual mountain enriching in myriad ways.
Baba Koichi, Kayoko, Sachiyo, and Katsumi
